The first Singer sewing machine was manufactured in 1851, but some of the logbooks from that time period were lost. Because of this, there are no available serial numbers for the years from 1851 to 1870. If there are no letters in the serial number on a machine, you can be sure that it was manufactured prior to 1900. In the following list, the. Ok, Joesr: the machine shown was made by the Domestic Sewing Machine Company and sold by Sears Roebuck. The decals pattern is called 'Scarab' by collectors. According to 'The Encyclopedia of Antique Sewing Machines' by Charles B. Law, this model was sold from the 1910s through the early 1930s. From what we have been able to learn so far - from the serial number, 132784, the machine was made 2/26/1906 in Cleveland Ohio. I downloaded a manual for a W7 Treadle. The unit needs some parts, such as the belt, throat plate, more bobbins etc. And does need some TLC.
A short discussion concerning 'antique' sewing machine values,
the types of sewing machines we can help you sell & those we do and do not buy, sell, or deal in.
BELOW ARE EXAMPLES OF SEWING MACHINES
THAT WE DO NOT TYPICALLY BUY OR SELL & AN EXPLANATION OF WHY
Common Full Size Antique Sewing Machines
We do not buy, sell, or deal in most later treadle sewing machines. We never buy, sell or deal in electric sewing machines by any maker that are in pieces of furniture or cabinets. Beyond the info found below we cannot help you with them, we do not have further info on them, and can not comment on the value of specific sewing machines. Please read down the page!!
A good rule of thumb for determining the desirability of an early sewing machine (pre-1880) is its serial number. A sewing machine by any maker with a serial number of 500 or less would be considered early, desirable and pretty rare. Low serial numbers by more obscure makers would be even better. At the left is an example of a sewing machine called the Ne Plus with serial # 21. It dates from the mid 1850's. Note how different it looks from later sewing machines. To see many other examples of early sewing machines go to my Past Sales Archives on our sister website www.AntiqBuyer.com. Those are the type and style sewing machines we seek. To see more common machines keep reading.
The simple fact that your sewing machine is old / antique does not necessarily mean it is desirable or valuable to a collector.
Any sewing machine with a serial # above 50,000 would be considered 'Late' and relatively common. In other words, your Wheeler & Wilson #9, White, Singer, Domestic, Wilcox & Gibbs, etc. 'antique' sewing machine, or any other sewing machine with a serial number in the 6 or 7 digit range, is considered late and relatively common. The machine may date from 1880, and does have some value, but it would almost always be as a decorator item and not as a collectible with a steady demand and known value from sewing machine collectors.
In other words, and bottom line, common / later sewing machines are worth whatever you can sell them for. Or whatever you can get a willing buyer to pay. That might be $1000 or more, but more likely $50 or less. It boils down to how good a salesperson are you, what or who your customer base is, and the sales venue you choose.
To the right and just below are two pictures of typical looking treadle sewing machines. Note the standard looking shape or form of the main body or head on these machines. Sewing machines like this typically date from the late 1870's and up until the 1930's or later. Names such as the Standard, Jones, White, Eldredge, Domestic, New Home, Princess, Franklin, Household, Free, Westinghouse, Remington, Greybar, Minnesota, later Singer Models, and many others are examples of later machines that are generally not in great demand and thus not very desirable or valuable to a sewing machine collector.
These later sewing machines can come with a host of different names, and in general were made by the three major makers. They were sold to and distributed by companies like Sears, Montgomery Wards or other large regional distributers across the country back in the late 1800's and early 1900's. There are millions of them in circulation.
Typical treadle sewing machines like these were sold for $10-$20 and the sales approach was that every house needed one. Not just one, but a new and different one every couple years. It was like cars today. Sewing machine makers were not happy selling you one that would last a lifetime, they wanted to sell you a new one every couple of years with a different name, or different cosmetic look even if it was the exact same machine. Much like how things are marketed today with NEW written all over the label. What that means is that there were millions and millions of these machines made and sold, and many are still around. Literally every household had one - if not more. Last years model ended up in the barn attic or garage and the new one went into the sewing room. There is a near endless supply of these later common treadle sewing machines.
The main distributors of this style of machine would pick or choose whatever name suited them or their goals for that year. Hence names like Household, Favorite, Remington, Winchester, Domestic, Minnesota, Alliance, Victory, Perfection, Ajax, etc. Large companies like Sears or Montgomery Wards and other large regional distributors would also use famous peoples names in an effort to promote their sewing machines any given year. And so you can also find machines with names like Washington, Lincoln, Franklin, Edison, and others on machines that are pretty much exactly the same. At other times they picked Patriotic names like Victory, or Defiance, Alliance, or whatever. This was typical right after WWI, or the Spanish American War. The large sewing machine makers sold their standard machines to different distributers / companies to be sold as that firm's house brands---with whatever name that distributer wanted.
There is NO extra value or importance in a NAME you do not recognize on a LATER sewing machine. That you can find no published information on a later sewing machine with what seems to you to be an unusual name does not mean it is rare and valuable, it means it is so unimportant that nobody has ever bothered to write or publish anything about it.
Antique Sewing Machines with recognizable names from early inventors or companies like Wilcox and Gibbs, Wheeler and Wilson, Howe, and Singer may or may not be desirable. First models of them are good, later models are very common. It is all in the details!!
It is important to understand that it is not just the name which determines the desirability or value of antique sewing machines. It is a combination of factors, including the name, vintage or age, style, the perceived desirability / demand, and most importantly the condition, all taken together, that determine the desirability and value of any machine, early or late.
for Later Vintage Sewing Machines
These later treadle sewing machines do have a value - to someone.
I have seen appraisals for, and price tags on, common treadle sewing machines like the ones pictured and named above as high as $4,000. I have also seen them sell at auction for as low as $10. Their true value is in the eye of the beholder, be that the buyer or seller. In most cases the true value of later common sewing machines is much closer to the bottom than the top.
In the past these sewing machines were often torn apart for the stands or drawers and then sold for more as parts or as pieces of furniture than they would fetch as a whole sewing machine. Bottom line, these later typical treadle sewing machines are worth what a willing buyer will pay for them given the situation and condition. I have seen and heard of decorators (great salespeople) selling these later machines to rich clients for thousands of dollars. Good luck being able to repeat that using eBay, Craigslist, or at your yard / estate sale.
A basic rule of thumb is: If it looks like your sewing machine, or if you remember your Mom using it, or nowadays even if your Grandma bought it, or it has a serial # with six or more numbers, it will probably hold little interest or value to serious or advanced sewing machine collectors.
To see the wide range of current values for these sorts of sewing machines simply go to completed sales at eBay and type the name of your antique sewing machine in the Search window provided. If there is nothing similar there this week, try again next week, or try searching just 'antique sewing machine' or 'vintage sewing machine' or 'treadle sewing machine'. The values for machines that look alike, and look like they are from the same era, are worth pretty much the same. Changes in the number of drawers, or other cosmetic changes in a cabinet are not going to greatly change the value of an otherwise common machine.
I guarantee comparable or similar sewing machines to yours can be found looking at eBay completed sales right now. The fact that most typical 'antique' sewing machines are sitting there with no bids speaks volumes as to their demand and desirability, or lack of. It also has a lot to do with the cost of shipping and the amount shipping will add to the cost. So if you have one for sale you should consider that as well and probably be thinking local because your potential buyers will surely balk at a $200 shipping cost for an machine they would not be willing to pay $100 for.
Or look in your local antique shop, where there is likely a similar one. They may not want to buy it, even for 1/2 price, but you can tell yourself that yours is worth about the same as long as you do not ask the shop dealer what he will give you for yours.
If after reading this you are still unsure about your sewing machine's value, send me one picture, indicating that you did read and understand this page, and I will give you my opinion. If it is early and something I am interested in I will contact you and see if we can work something out. Because of the volume of emails I get, if you obviously did not read and understand what I have said on this page and ask me the value of, or information about, a later low value sewing machine I will simply delete your email or respond with something like thanks but this is not a machine for us, or something that we buy, sell, or deal in.
If you think your sewing machine is valuable you should be willing to pay a reasonable amount for a paid appraisal. I can do this for you, but you run the risk of me saying 'I think it's junk.' Or you can get past sale results from Worthpoint for FREE after you give them your CC info. You can search their database of a couple hundred million search results, and pay nothing until you see they actually have results for your machine.
If you need to find a place to get rid of your common sewing machine there is eBay, Craigslist, or a good option is donate it to your church group that helps third world countries, taking a write-off on your taxes. Or donate it to Goodwill, Hospice, or some other worthy group. As a last resort put it gently by the curb. Somebody will want it. Problem solved!
Later Full Size Electric Sewing Machines
We are NOT interested in buying, and never deal in, later typical looking electric sewing machines that date from after 1900 EXCEPT the Model 221 or 222 Singer Featherweight Sewing Machines. To find approx. values for other later electric sewing machines by other makers simply go to eBay and run a few searches there in completed sales. There will be hundreds of similar looking machines listed there.
If your electric sewing machine is not listed there DO NOT assume it is rare or desirable. The likely explanation is that it is so common and commands such a low value or interest that no one bothers to list them and nobody cares. Same thing if your sewing machines name does not come up in a Google search with any information. For example vintage electric sewing machines made in Japan after WWII hold very little resale value above scrap prices to anyone, and most knowledgeable sellers do not even bother trying to list them.
About Antique Sewing Machines
We Do Buy, Sell, & Deal In
& Are Interested In Helping You With
To learn about, and see many antique sewing machines we do buy, sell, and deal in please visit our sister website www.AntiqBuyer.com and visit the sewing related pages you will find there. At that site there are past sales archives, with pics, prices and general info about many good sewing machines, both full size and toy sewing machines.
You can view our current inventory of sewing machines offered for sale by following the links found in the left hand column of this website. Thanks & enjoy.
* * * * We Buy & Sell Antiques! * * * *
If you have a single antique, or a collection of antiques to sell please Contact Patented-Antiques.com at patentedantiques@gmail.com giving us your PHONE NUMBER and other contact info and we will get back to you ASAP.
To view examples of the types of antiques and collectibles we have previously sold and are always interested in helping you sell please visit our Past Sales Archive Pages at our sister website www.AntiqBuyer.com.
Thanks!!
Larry & Carole
Links, lite bulbs, and commonalities. Here is information that applies to more than one machine, so it has been combined on this page and referred to as appropriate...
Sewing Machine Links | Sewing Machine Bulb Study | Sewing Machine Wiring | Japanese JA and JC Numbers | Sears: Models, Makers, & Years | Harp Sizes
Keeping it short and simple. These links are where you can buy parts for some of the machines on these pages. I've had good luck with these, but no link constitutes an endorsement, use at your own risk!A fairly long page, scroll down to what you need. It has 'Rotary Motor Pulley #409' which will work on any of the friction drive machines on these pages, EXCEPT the Streamliner. Said 'pulley' is not tapered like that machine requires, although modification of #409 is possible. This page also has the standard 15287-A bobbin winder tire as used on Singers and others; bobbins and bobbin cases for the 117.959 Kenmore and others. Worth exploring.
Old Rotary Parts.
Need a manual? Many are available free on the web, including several right here. However, not all are, or you may want a nicely printed and bound copy. I can recommend https://www.tias.com/vintage-sewing/machines/manuals/. Linda, the proprietress is VERY knowledgable about old machines and she has manuals available for virtually everything - in both downloadable PDF and printed form.
Need other parts? This guy probably has them. He has an extensive listing of old machines he's parting out, email him with your needs. He's always been affordable, I've used him several times.
The belt for the Sewmatic is a #978 cogged V-belt formerly available from the new defunct Sew Classic dot Com. You'll have to use Google...
Need to pack a machine the RIGHT way to ship it? Refer to This (offsite) Page!
A great sewing machine blog: The Archaic and Arcane. Lots of repair and maintenance info & advice.
This guy shows how to sew various things, and does each project on a different machine: Thin Man Sewing.
This guy claims that his is the number one male sewing blog: Male Pattern Boldness.
Another vintage sewing machine blog: Steel Sewing.
More: Paul's Sewing Machines.
Needle info, a few manuals, and other miscellany: Kevin's Sewing Stuff.
I've made a couple of sewing machine bases, and repaired a few more, but this guy has it down to a science: How to Make a Custom Sewing Machine Case.
This started as a search for the ideal light bulb for Nationals; especially the Reversew Rex and the Streamliner, but evolved slightly as the White 690 as well as the Sewmatic Chainstitcher use these very common threaded base bulbs. Maybe your machine does too!
The Bulbs under discussion, from top:
15 Watt Nitelite/Christmas style
15 Watt equivalent LED 'Silicon Bulb'
15 Watt #643 bulb
15 Watt super skinny bulb from Feit Electric.
This is a picture of correct, no longer made, lite bulb as originally used in the
Reversew Rex and Streamliner.
And here is this same 'original' bulb compared with the Feit Electric product.
In the case of the two Nationals in question, I had been using a standard #643 bulb, although it was a VERY tight fit, especially in the 'Rex'. In both machines, the glass envelope of the bulb was touching metal, and again in the case of the 'Rex', I had to screw it in place very carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers!
So when Randy discovered the ultra small/skinny Feit Electric 15 watt bulbs, they were a match made in heaven as they were actually smaller than the original! This bulb can be purchased at Home Depot, and is Feit Electric # BP15T4C/2 - I suspect the '/2' means two to a package. They are marketed as bulbs for picture lights and similar.
The Nitelite/Christmas style 15 watt bulb was probably the most common threaded bulb used in sewing machines from the 1930s forward, Nationals not withstanding. Machines with space for this bulb have the advantage of being able to use all the various smaller bulbs as well. Note that real Christmas lamps (or nite lite lamps) are only half the wattage (7½ vs. 15) of the identical looking type used in sewing machines. Some of this type are frosted, others clear.
I had been wanting an LED 'bulb' for my main machine, a 1976 White 690, almost since the day I got it. Unfortunately, candelabra based LED bulbs came in three types: Nitelite sized, which would of course fit the 690, but also nitelite brightness (or less); Plenty bright, but chandelier sized - too big; and one seller on eBay was selling what looked like a crude home-made lashup for $30+!
So when the above pictured LED bulb appeared on eBay for less than $10, I bought one. It seems well made, and is cast in crystal clear silicon rubber. Its almost as small as the Feit Electric incandescent, and fits fine in the Nationals being discussed here. Its supposedly 25% brighter than the incandescent - I will say it certainly appears brighter and certainly isn't any dimmer - and best of all it only uses somewhere around 2 watts or a bit less, so it isn't so darn HOT. In fact, you can hold it when its been on for hours. Who actually makes this particular bulb is unknown, no identifying marks found on the packaging.
What follows is a 'Bulb Study' I did, showing the #643, the Feit, and the LED bulb and how they fit and look in the two Nationals under consideration, and then a clear Christmas/Nitelite style and LED in the Sewmatic and White. All illumination comparisons taken under the same lighting conditions.
In the end, the LED now resides permanently in the White, the two Nationals have Feit bulbs, and the displaced #643s await re-use elsewhere and in the Sewmatic chainstitcher.
#643 in a Streamliner
And its illumination pattern.
The Feit in a Streamliner - plenty of room.
Standard Sewing Machine Serial Numbers
And its illumination pattern - same as the #643 as you'd expect.
The LED in a Streamliner - still enough room although its a bit long.
And its illumination pattern - Brighter and whiter.
#643 in a Reversew Rex faceplate
End-on view - glass to metal contact.
And its illumination pattern.
Feit in a Reversew Rex faceplate
End-on view - no glass to metal contact!
And its illumination pattern - same as the #643 as you'd expect.
LED in a Reversew Rex faceplate
End-on view - no glass to metal contact! No rubber to metal contact either!
And its illumination pattern - Brighter and whiter.
Moving on to the White 690 and the Sewmatic chainstitcher: As they both were engineered for use with a Christmas/nitelite bulb, no need to repeat for the #643 or Feit as they'd both fit with room to spare and the illumination patterns would be exactly the same.
Sewmatic chainstitcher with Christmas/nitelite style.
Its illumination pattern, nice and square.
Now the LED in the Sewmatic...
National Sewing Machine Serial Numbers
And a blaze of bright white lite!
Christmas/nitelite style in the White.
With its illumination pattern.
LED in its forever home in the White.
Also a blaze of bright white lite!
But What About...
The Expert B.T.?
The Micro-Bell?
The Singer 99K?
The Singer 185K?
The Pfaff 776 Serger?
The Micro-Bell uses an odd looking bulb indeed - shaped like a Christmas/nitelite type, but a double contact bayonet style that has been reflectorized on one side. That machine, the Pfaff serger, as well as the 'SingerLight' on the 99K should be able to use a double contact LED bulb that the same eBay seller - and doubtlessly others as well - also sells.
The TZ-17 uses an E17 based bulb, rather than the E12, but said larger bulbs are readily available in LED form these days. There is a brief discussion on the TZ-17 page.
That leaves the 185K. An entire bulb study was done on it a couple of years ago, available on the 185k page, shows how a standard candelabra based bulb - which would now include our featured LED bulb - can be used with an adapter. However, even that oddball bulb seems to be available in an LED version now.
Below are diagrams for 4 common ways sewing machines are often found to be wired. These refer to 100 percent line voltage operated machines, the more modern machines using low voltage controls are beyond the scope of this page and are not covered here. In this context, 'Controller' can mean either a foot controller or a knee controller; and it can be a wire wound resistive type, a 'Carbon Pile' resistive type, or even a line voltage solid state style.
This is probably the most common wiring schema used on machines from the 1970s forward, as well as some older models. The 'optional' lite switch will be present in most cases, and the 'alternate switch wiring' will be seen on many newer machines, thus switching both the motor and the lite. My Pfaff 776 Serger is one such wired the latter version of this schema. The old Kenmore is an example of an older machine wired this way. DO NOTE: There may or may not be a pseudo-standard use of which pins are used for what - for that reason no pin numbers have been placed on the schematic! It will be necessary to ascertain how the pins are wired on the machine and match the external wiring accordingly!Here is a link to a nicely done page showing 3 pin wiring with pin numbers for SINGERS. The diagram, while drawn differently, is the same as the one above, but having the pin numbers will help if you have a Singer. I still suggest verifying your machine against the provided pin numbers with an ohmmeter or visual tracing! LINK: Singer Wiring.
This alternate method of using a 3 pin connector has the advantage of not requiring a splice or 2 wires on one pin of the 3 pin connector. Instead the 2 conductor line cord goes directly to the foot pedal, and then a 3 conductor cord goes from the foot pedal to the machine. The Micro Bell is wired this way, and I rewired the SewMatic Chainstitcher to this schema as it resulted in a much cleaner wiring job. Any 3 pin system should be able to be wired this way if desired.DO NOTE: There may or may not be a pseudo-standard use of which pins are used for what - for that reason no pin numbers have been placed on the schematic! It will be necessary to ascertain how the pins are wired on the machine and match the external wiring accordingly! National Sewing Machine Company (NSMCo) used this schema as their wiring standard for their entire history. It is, in my opinion, the neatest and cleanest way to wire one. You will note the relative gender of the two connectors. The connector for the controller is duplicated on the wiring block and on a pigtail under the machine - your machine may have the wiring block (foot pedal) connector blocked off. Some Nationals had light switches, some did not. I have not seen the 'Alternate Switch Wiring' on a National, but have seen it alluded to in at least one NSMCo manual. Lastly, this is type typical wiring schema used by most Japanese machines from the 1950s through at least the mid-70s, as my 1976 White 690 is wired this way. This is also a very good way to wire a machine, I retrofitted my Singer 99K to this schema during that machine's restoration. All the complexity is hidden inside the pre-wired double receptacle wiring block; the machine's motor and lite plug into the appropriately marked receptacles, a 'mains plug' (as my British friends would call it) comes out one end of the block, and a wire pigtail that leads to the controller comes out the other end. The only caveat is if the motor and lite are plugged into the wrong receptacles, the motor will come on full blast but you'll have a light that varies intensity with the controller! I've never seen a machine wired this way that didn't have a light switch, the schema pretty much requires one. In fact, in the case of my White 690, there's a double pole switch that controls the motor as well. Japanese JA and JC numbers
This machine shows a JA number, a JC number, as well as a maker's sigil (Shansin in this case). Not
all Japanese machines show all of these, in fact, many show none at all! Photo contributed by Randy.
Note: JA-39 was indicated being badged as Kenmore in the original list. I'm not buying it until I see further confirmation. I was able to confirm JA-39 as being Toyota OEM. To the best of anyone's knowledge, Toyota never manufactured Kenmore sewing machines for Sears (UPDATE: Toyota is known to have manufactured non-Kenmore machines for Sears for the Canadian market), only Janome, Maruzen/Jaguar, and Soryu among the Japanese makers did so. However, we now have several 'unknown' manufacturers for Kenmore as noted below, perhaps one of them actually is Toyota...
Nobody really knows exactly what these numbers mean, and it would probably take a native Japanese speaker to be able to visit the appropriate archives in Japan - if they still exist - to try to shed more light on the subject. However, I have observed:
- 'JA/JC' numbers seem to be quite rare on free arm machines, but comparatively few have been checked, and some may be inside.
- Very seldom seen on Singer 15 clones.
- 'JC' numbers are ALWAYS cast into the bottom of the bed - until they're not. See note 4 in relation to JC-39.
- Not all Japanese machines have JA or JC numbers. Many have only one or the other or none. A given manufacturer may have used these numbers sporadically. Nobody knows the why or how of this...
- Any OEM listed has only been so after POSITIVE identification, otherwise a question mark is put by the OEM name. To date, the working assumption is that only one OEM used each JA or JC number - but that assumption could be disproven at any time.
- 'JA' numbers, also found under the bed, are either stamped into the metal, stamped into an under-bed badge (sometimes as a serial number prefix), or they're inked stamped.
Except when they're not! This appears to have changed by the time of the aluminum era. 'Kenmore' machines with 'JA-4' (Maruzen) cast into (instead of stamped) the bottom of their aluminum bed are known to exist. These machines also show a 'JC-4' cast right next to the 'JA-4'! 'JC-4' is a known Brother number. It is my current working theory, that 'JC' refers to the company that CAST the machine hull, 'JA' refers to the company that ASSEMBLED (designed?) the machine. This is PURE SPECULATION on my part.
In this case, it would appear to mean that Brother made the castings for Maruzen who then assembled the machines. Other (non-Kenmore) aluminum examples are known to exist with both JA and JC numbers cast in in a similar manner - including all Free-Arm machines observed with JA/JC numbers (as they're all Aluminum era machines).
Aluminum Kenmore 158.16012 with cast in 'JA' number in addition to the usual cast in 'JC'
White Sewing Machine Serial Number
Listed next to the JA or JC number is the OEM manufacturer, if known, then under the 'Badged as' heading are any known badgings the finished machine was sold under. JA/JC numbers are generally found in the form of 'J-Axx' or 'J-Cxx', but are listed here as 'JA-xx' and 'JC-xx' as that seems to be the accepted way to list them on the Internet. There are also very rarely seen 'JN' and 'HA' numbers, no-one seems to know what those mean other than 'HA-1' indicates a Japanese round bobbin straight stitch machine. Apparently not manufacturer specific. I've seen occasional other HA-xx numbers, including HA003 cast onto the bottom of a Morse badged straight stitch machine built by Toyota.
* From another list on a certain detestable website, unverified by Zorba
| Machine | Year | Size Class | Pillar to Needle distance (Inches) |
| Singer VS2 | 1891 | Full (4/4) | 7-15/16 |
| Wartheim Class 12 | 1900 | Fullish (4/5) | 6-1/2 |
| Singer 127 | 1918 | Full (4/4) | 8.00 |
| National Rotary 'D' | 1935 | 3/4 | 5-3/4 |
| Streamliner | 1940s | Full (4/4) | 7-3/4 |
| Kenmore 117.959 | 1940s | Full+ (5/4) | 7-1/16 |
| Kenmore 158.16012zz | 1970 | Full (4/4) | 7-3/8 |
| White 690zz | 1976 | Full (4/4) | 7.00 |
| Reversew 'Rex' | 1950s2 | 3/4 | 6-5/16 |
| Reversew 'B' | 1940s2 | Full (4/4) | 7-11/16 |
| Expert B.T. | 1940s3 | 3/4 | 6-5/16 |
| Singer 99K | 19571 | 3/4 | 6-1/4 |
| Singer 185K | 1960 | 3/4 | 6-1/4 |
| Singer 15K | 1929 | Full (4/4) | 6-7/8 |
| Micro-Bell | 1952 | 1/4 | 4-3/4 |
| Sewmatic | 1950 | 3/4 | 5-3/4 |
| Toyota TZ-17zz | 1950s | (Full) 4/4 | 7.00 |
1 Produced from 1911 until 1963.
2 Produced from the 1930s until 1954.
Franklin Sewing Machine Serial Numbers
3 Produced from 'the treadle age' until 1950.
zz Zig Zag machine measured to leftmost needle position. The real surprise here is the Singer 127. It has a whopping needle to pillar distance of EIGHT inches, and the VS2 is only 1/16' shorter.
Pillar shape can influence these measurements as well since the measurement is taken right at the bed level. Most older machines curve in considerably as the pillar reaches the bed, causing a narrower measurement. Higher up, they're wider. On the other hand, most modern machines are perfectly straight up and down in this area!
Wilson Sewing Machine Serial Numbers
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